why dont junction boxes come with screws Do metal junction boxes require a grounding screw with pigtail? Several Journeymen have stated that if you run metal conduit, the conduit is considered grounded, thus a ground screw in every j-box is not required (the same answer applies if you're running MC cable). $900.00
0 · metal junction box ground screws
1 · junction boxes explained
2 · how to install junction boxes
3 · how to connect junction boxes
4 · grounding screws for junction boxes
5 · electrical junction box installation
6 · electrical junction box
7 · diy electrical junction box
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Do metal junction boxes require a grounding screw with pigtail? Several Journeymen have stated that if you run metal conduit, the conduit is considered grounded, thus a ground screw in every j-box is not required (the same answer applies if you're running MC cable). After opening the outlet up, it appears that the metal box has no grounding screw and the existing grounding wires are wrapped behind the mounting screws (the box has two mounting bracket, one on the top and one . After connecting the wires, secure them neatly inside the junction box. Additionally, if the box is made of metal, ensure proper grounding by connecting a ground wire to the grounding screw provided in the box. This . The loose end of the wire goes with the pigtail, and then you will screw the box. We use special green wire connectors to combine the grounded wires. White neutral wires are combined with black hot wires with the help of a .
The purpose/advantage of an old work box is that you use it where there is no stud to attach to. The tabs bind it to the drywall. If you use the tabs then you do not need to screw it to a stud. IF you have a stud to attach to then . Loose connections inside a wall can cause unexpected (and unwanted!) problems. Whenever a new switch or outlet is added to a circuit, there may be a new circuit device in an electrical box. This electrical box functions . I have read several articles that say its acceptable to use the screw that comes with the metal box for grounding. The two silver ones usually used to attach a fixture. As long . Place the junction box cover over the open box and secure it using the provided screws. Turn the power back on. Once the junction box is securely closed and the wires are safely enclosed, turn the power back on at .
A junction box is often needded when one is adding in to an existing circuit and this is often unavoidable. These days, the MF junction box is the better way to do it. Multi-way junction boxes used to be the standard way . Especially if you are using the metal junction box as a self-made "extension cord" because if that box comes into contact with moisture getting an electric shock is a high .
metal junction box ground screws
I have a Bosch dishwasher; their power cords come with a 3-prong plug as standard. If you don't have an outlet, then you would need the junction box adapter, which replaces the power cord. Looks like you already have a plug for your disposal you could most likely use for the dishwasher depending on what else is on the circuit. However, breaker boxes and service disconnect boxes don't have built-in clamps. I don't recall seeing a panel box where any kind of clamps were added to the holes in the box. . There's no room to get a screwdriver on the head of the screws. 11-28-2019, 11:58 PM #8. . The reason metal boxes/panels don't come with clamps is there are so many .It's also not true that using plastic boxes with MC cable is a code violation. Some boxes come with 1/2" knockouts that can be used and others are designed to be a "drill your own hole" thing. However, an internal bonding means (aka, bonding bushings) connecting each metallic cable or conduit in a box is required if you go that route. If you need big cubes, get 4-11/16 boxes like the 5-cable install above, but they are pricey at big-box stores for some reason. Don't bother with pricey boxes with flanges, they give metal boxes a bad name on price lol. Run deck screws or whatever through the screw holes in the back of the box, which are for that.
The electrical boxes are recessed 0.75'' and I already have outlets installed, do not want them removed. Can someone explain why you need a spacer, vs extender vs why I cant just really use a really long screw to get these mounted to the existing box? I dont understand the differences.Yeah, never thought of that before. 314.43 does say cannot be inside the nonmetalic box, but goes on to say that ''the box shall be constructed so as to prevent contact between the conductors in the box and the supporting screws.'' If the screw heads are recessed, not sure how, other than trying, how you could mess that up. So, I don't know.
I know there are adapters if the holes don't like up, but I have the opposite problem.. My light fixture requires the screws from the mounting bracket to be horizontal but that's where the holes are to attach the bracket to the junction box... The spacing is also exactly the same. I don't know how to resolve this. Old boxes and outlets are original, shown by the original paint over the ears and screws of the outlets, not retapped. I tried the new screws in a newer box and found that if they are not aligned perfectly then only the end of the screw will go in and the rest will strip. Here's the problem, the screws you see in the photo with the mounting bracket drop right into those holes and push all the way to the back and don't come anywhere close to filling the space. No amount of turning is going to make them tight. They just rattle around loose. The junction box has no other place to mount anything.
I ordinarily don't use "old-work" cut-in boxes to hang fixtures unless it is something like a LED wafer or something really really lightweight. I just don't like depending on drywall for support. I ran into one like this just yesterday over a kitchen sink, new owner day after settlement repainting their rooms before move-in, wanted a pendant.Replace the box. Take a hacksaw blade and cut the nails holding the box. Then take another “new work” box, take the nails out, slide it in place and from the inside of the box run Sheetrock screws into the stud! BAM ! Done !In the basement there is an extremely complicated web of older bx cables that we just don’t understand. There’s a junction box every 2-3ft on every line and all are connected to each other like one large web. Is this something common that was done on purpose? Something done by a hack electrician? Some of these boxes are a foot away from .
That's not what that's for. The strain relief is for the supply cable. You put the Romex through the strain relief, tighten the screws so it's snug, then you make your connections to the fixture wires, put the wirenuts on them, and then you tuck them into the fixture and screw in the cover and you're done. The fixture itself is the junction box. The cost of adding junction box points into lights would surely have to be minimal (pennies), so I don't get why they don't come with appropriate connection points to avoid hassle and external wiring with more connection points to potentially fail.
junction boxes explained
A cross strap is a common way to adapt the larger size down to the smaller size. Screws to 3 1/2 box and 2 3/4 fixture mounts to strap bracket. Some 2 3/4" boxes, particularly the metal styles, can allow a strap bracket to be mounted to the .
I have read several articles that say its acceptable to use the screw that comes with the metal box for grounding. The two silver ones usually used to attach a fixture. As long as that screw is only used for that purpose and none other. Now the NEC says you must use a green hexagonal screw as the grounding screw for the metal box.
If it's metal, it's just a matter of using the proper size of screws, or retapping the holes accordingly. If it's a non-metallic box and the screws won't hold, then REPLACE THE BOX. Often times old plastic, fiberglass and bakelight boxes will crack or holes will strip out, and the box has to be replaced in order to mount a new fixture.Was talking with my foreman last night (master). Pull throughs don’t need to have the ground spliced and the ground continuity should be achieved by the raceway using UL listed parts. Which is why throwing a screw connector into a GRC that screws onto a flex connector is a violation. Does it work? Mmmmaybe.You wouldn’t necessarily have to cut out the drywall. Cut the nails holding the box onto the stud with a reciprocating saw, loosen all the wires, and pull the box out of the hole. Then use a remodel or old work box that clamps onto the drywall or use a new work box and just screw it . It all depends on how you are utilizing the metal junction box: Are you using it loosely (meaning not in the wall) as like within a self-made utility "extension cord" OR is the metal junction box attached to a stud in the wall? In either case if you have a grounding screw on the outlet itself IT SHOULD BE USED.
Both your pictures illustrate screws that you don't need to touch to remove the fixture. The ones you need to get off are the two holding the fixture to the wall, actually to the junction box in the wall. The perfect tool is one I use often, a small grinder with a metal cutting blade to just slice them off in seconds.
Install a special grounding screw. Find a green hole on the junction box and make sure that the screw is coming in contact with the grounding wire. You can choose to strip the wire and tie it to the screw. Tie in the wires together. Ensure that they are of the same color and that they are tightly tied together.If me, I'd clean it all out as much as possible and fill the screw holes and surrounding areas with 2-part epoxy. Then drill new holes. You can buy switch & outlet spacers at the big box in the electrical section (there's even a picture of this exact scenario). These are stackable spacers that go behind the tabs and the mounting screw goes through them. Either come pre-wired or add your own flex and then run this to say the wiska box You wouldn’t be able to terminate SWA with suitable gland at the actual light fitting so flex is the only option I’ve just fitted several Knightsbridge Spike Lights, come pre wired with above flex, this runs on top of flower bed to a Wiska box that has SWA .
I'll just add to the excellent advice given here, Those wiska boxes are my go to for outside connections and while usually excellent for the job, I have known a few to distort when using the corner holes for fixing, probably caused by over tightening or using the wrong sized screw, it deforms the back if the surface isn't flat, after time, in exposed locations, either the .Sometimes need like 5/8" or 3/4" needs to go in. Using 8-32 1" machine screws, going to cut shorter to solve this, but professional sparkies probably have a different screw or technique so as not to struggle with these darn things getting the screws to go in far enough. I don't see specific screws at big box stores. What are pros recommend?
The bare ground wire in the electrical box is supposed to connect to the green screw on that short metal bar. The body of the light fixture is meant to be grounded through the mounting screw that goes into that metal bar. Do be aware that this technique of grounding the light fixture would have been the technique used in older installations.
how to install junction boxes
how to connect junction boxes
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why dont junction boxes come with screws|metal junction box ground screws